Strava Ride Segment

I created a ride segment the other day on Strava.  The ride segment is from S. Washington St. in Frenchtown, NJ to Kingwood Stn Rd 3 miles down the towpath from Frenchtown.  What's pretty cool is that Strava will give you all of the metrics for your ride segment.  Does anyone know how that works?  Is it being done real-time?  I'm not even sure my phone was on.  I know Strava wasn't running on my phone.  Does Strava do it all post ride when I download my ride from my Garmin Edge into Strava?  That is, Strava looks at my ride and says, "hey I've got a segment along that ride in my database so lets capture the metrics for that segment for you".  The average Power is a little high but that's because I was wearing my PowerCal HR monitor/power meter instead of my hub based power meter on my road bike.  I'd say it was 5-10% high...closer to 10%.

Anyway, I think it's pretty cool that it gives the metrics for the segment- see chart/graph above.

Power ON!  Coach Rob

PowerCal Ride Segment

Here's a ride segment from my ride the other night wearing my PowerCal HR Monitor/Power Meter estimator.  I was pretty happy with the results.  I'd say the power numbers were a tad high, maybe 5% high, but that's not a problem since I can adjust the power output (across the entire ride) using Golden Cheetah software (open source).  Just go into the main menu, choose Edit then choose Adjust Power Values and Enter "-5" (in my case) and it will adjust the power profile 5% lower for the entire ride.

Here's my ride profile:

Power ON!  Coach Rob

Bright Lights- revisited!

5000 Lumen 2x CREE XML U2 LED Cycling Bicycle Bike Light Lamp HeadLight Headlamp

I had purchased the 5000 Lumen 2x Cree XML U2 LED bike light via Amazon this week for $22.  I used it last night for the first time.  My impression?  Fair at best.  You get what you pay for.  The light has 3 brightness settings: High, Med & Low.  It puts out a good flood light with a width of about 30-40 ft.  The length of light (ahead of the bike) is about 20 yds.  It definitely doesn't put out 5000 lumens.  I'm not even sure it puts out 2000 lumens.   If I had to guess, I'd say it's more like 500 lumens..so they had a typo in their advertised output. 

I fully charged the battery pack (4 x 18650 Lithium-ion batteries) before I connected it to the light.  I have no idea what the capacity of the 4 batteries are.  There was no paperwork.  If I had to guess, I'd say each battery had only an 1100 mAh capacity.  And, I'd say two of the batteries were connected in series and two in parallel from looking at the case.  Since Li-ion batteries have a terminal voltage of 3.7v that makes for a 7.4v on-load voltage for the battery pack (2 batteries in series).  The charging voltage of the battery pack is 8.4v and is advertised as such.  Therefore, the battery pack is an 8.4v 2200 mAh battery pack.  Why do I think the capacity was only 2200mAh?  Because 3/4 of the way through my 1.5 hr. bike ride, the light shut down completely.  It just shut off.  And, that was on Med power.  I knew there was no way the battery pack would last the entire 1.5 hr. bike ride on high power. 

Anyway, I'm in search for a new battery pack for my new light.  I'll probably end up paying more for the battery and charger then I did for the entire kit...but that's ok.  I knew a 5000 lumen bike light for $22 was unrealistic.  When I get a new battery hooked-up, I'll give yet another report/update.

Until then, Power ON!  Coach Rob

PowerCal First Ride

I had my first ride last night with the PowerCal HR/Power Monitor.  The PowerCal HR/Power Monitor is made by PowerTap- one of the leaders in bicycle Power Meters.  www.powertap.com   They make quality products.  I own two hub-based power meters from Power Tap and they've given me reliable performance/service for over 10 yrs.

So, what was my initial impression of the PowerCal HR/Power Monitor?  I like it.  It does exactly what it was advertised to do and that is use it's internal algorithm to give an estimate/approximation of the power output of your ride based on your HRmax.  Check out one of my earlier blogs/posts on the PowerCal.   Watch the short video given by Dr. Allen Lim (a world recognized expert in power meters). 

Last nights ride was not your typical ride.  It was cold (45F), rainy, muddy & wet- not to mention "dark".  I rode on my Mountain Bike and I had a waterproof jacket, winter riding pants, gloves, hat, etc.  I was pretty much all bundled up.  Not really the best attire for producing maximum watts on the bike.  Besides, I wasn't really fresh or in "form".  I was still feeling the effects of an earlier workout in the week.  I'm still trying to get back in cycling shape.  I've only been riding since July of 2017 after a couple year layoff.

I included the graph above to show the Garmin Edge output from the PowerCal.  It says my HRavg for the ride was 146 bpm, Avg Speed of 12.5 mph and Avg Power of 190w.  You can see why the average speed is only 12.5 mph when it looks like the majority of my ride was above the 15 mph line.  That's because there are a lot of times where I had to slow down to say 5-8 mph during road crossings, bridge crossings, deer crossing, etc.  Those times/speeds are used in the average calculation.  If I had to guess, I'd say my "real" average power output riding at 16 mph was about 190-200 watts.  PowerCal reported over 200watts, more like 220watts.  That's not too far off.  What I'll do this weekend (or next week) is use the PowerCal HR monitor on my Computrainer and compare the outputs during a steady state ride.  That will truly tell me what the delta is between the two.  I'll use my Garmin Edge to capture the PowerCal HR and  estimated power and I'll use my Computrainer to capture the "true/actual" power.

Until then, Power ON! Coach Rob

Head Protection

I wear the helmet pictured above.  It's the Bell Gage helmet.  Problem is, I bought mine over 10 yrs. ago and the technology has gotten much better since then, particularly the protection the new helmets afford.  The new model is the Bell Cage MIPS helmet.  MIPS stands for Multi-directional Impact Protection System.  Here is a description of the helmet from Bell:

Bell's Gage MIPS Helmet takes the same professional-grade formula of the original Gage and makes one key addition: the revolutionary Multi-Directional Impact Protection System (MIPS). Though you're likely familiar with it by now, we think it's worth briefly running through MIPS' function and benefits. MIPS consists of a strategically anchored liner that moves independently of the helmet's shell. When the shell suffers an oblique impact, MIPS allows it to slide across your head, diffusing the impact force applied to your brain by redirecting it.

Besides the addition of MIPS, the Gage remains largely unchanged. It's still based on the CPSC-certified Fusion In-Mold Microshell, which involves bonding an EPS foam body to the helmet's shell for increased structural integrity, and it uses the same two-way adjustable Twin Axis Gear fit system to ensure that the helmet's protective measures are in place when you need them. The Gage is finished with a complement of X-Static padding, a quick-dry material with an antimicrobial coating that helps eliminate odor.

It's a little pricey but when it comes to protecting your head during a crash, I don't think you can put a price tag on that.  If you're looking for a new helmet, I would seriously consider a MIPS helmet.  Bell isn't the only manufacturer.  There are a few more.  Check em out online- do a Google search.

Power ON!  Coach Rob

Bright Lights!

5000 Lumen 2x CREE XML U2 LED Cycling Bicycle Bike Light Lamp HeadLight Headlamp

Not too long ago I was talking about the new LED bike lights on the market and how I found one made by Te-Rich for $32 that was 1200 lumen.  Well, I found a better one on Amazon.  It's a 5000 lumen LED light for only $22.  And, the reviews are good.  Granted, I don't think any of these Chinese made lights put out the advertised lumens that they do.  If this one says 5000, I'd be happy if it was half of that.  But, for $22 you can't beat it..and shipped 2 day (Amazon Prime), no tax.  The head light I'm using now is a Princeton Tec single beam light.  I think I paid $200 for it back in the day.  And, as far as lumen go, I wouldn't think it's any more than 200-300 lumen.  It really pales in comparison to today's LED lights.  And, it's small, it fits in the palm of your hand.  Battery life?  All I want it to last is 2-3 hrs. in low temps on a single charge.  I just ordered mine and I'll post a review after I use it on Thursday night with my new PowerCal HR monitor.

Central Bucks Bike Club Thursday Night Ride

I lead a ride on Thursday nights (on the Canal Tow Path) from 630pm to 8pm on River Rd. near Pt. Pleasant, PA (not NJ).  The GPS address is: 4788 River Rd (Rt 32), New Hope, PA.  The start/finish is in the parking lot across the street of a former hotel/restaurant (forget the name). 

I ride my Mountain Bike but most people ride either a hybrid road bike or a cyclo-cross bike.  I have a hybrid bike but I ride the Mountain Bike because I get a better workout since the Coefficient of Drag (Cd) is much higher on a mountain bike than it is on a hybrid/road bike.  That's because the mountain bike is heavier, wider more agressive tires, has a suspension system, etc.  Do you need a mountain bike?  Nope, that is until it snows.  I'd rather ride a mountain bike in the snow than a hybrid or road bike.  In fact, I'd rather ride a Fat Tire bike in the snow but I don't have one.  And, the plan is to ride throughout the Winter on Thursday night.

What's the route?  The ride starts on the PA side of the River near Pt. Pleasant and heads Northwest on the canal/towpath up to the Uhlerstown Covered Bridge.  At the Covered Bridge we get off the canal/towpath and head down Uhlerstown Rd. to River Rd.  We're on River Rd. for no more than 100 yds. when we cross the bridge over the Delaware River into Frenchtown, NJ.  Once in Frenchtown, we re-group at the Cafe on the canal/towpath for no more than a few minutes.  From there, it's a straight shot (non-stop) to Bulls Island and I mean a straight shot.  Once at Bulls Island we cross the walking bridge across the Delaware River to the Black Bass Inn.  Once across the River, it's no more than 100 yds. up River Rd. until we're back on the Canal/TowPath. From there it's no more than 1.2 miles back to the Start.  The route is 19 miles long and flat and at the speed we average makes it a 1.5 hr. ride- on the button.  I don't believe there is more than a 50 ft. elevation rise/drop the entire ride.  The PA side is mostly single track with dirt/gravel.  The NJ side is mostly double wide with gravel.  The PA side has at least 4-5 bridges that you need to duck under the NJ side is void of any bridges.

What to bring?  Lights.  It's best to have two lights: 1 on the bike and 1 on your helmet.  The disadvantage of only 1 light on your bike is that it only lights up where your bike is pointed.  You can't see in the woods and if you have a bike computer you can't see that either.  What else?  A helmet.  I know it's only the canal path but it's just as easy to fall on the canal path as it is the road.  And, when the ground freezes, it's just as hard as the road.  Besides, at night the tow path/woods come alive and there are all kinds of critters (big and small) on the Canal/Tow Path.  So far on every ride we've had deer jump out in front of us.  Also, if you go off the Canal/Tow Path for whatever reason, you've got the canal on one side and a drop-off in some cases of over 30 ft. into the Delaware River (or on rocks) on the other side.  The Canal/Tow Path is only 12 ft. wide in some spots on the PA side.  The NJ side is much wider.  A snack/drink is advisable even though it's only 19 miles.  That's because we go at a pretty good clip...at least for me on a mountain bike..ha.  The ride is advertised as 14-15 mph average, but there are times when we crank it up to 18-19 mph.  And, dress warm.

Oh, one more thing, I just created a 3 mile segment on Strava on the NJ side.  Right now, my time is 11 minutes and change...for normal riding.  I hope to improve on that time each week throughout the Winter.  I'd like to get that time down to 10 minutes- or just under 10 which I believe is an 18 mph average.

Come join us on Thursday night.  Power ON!  Coach Rob

Paceline Etiquette & Safety

If you ride in a group, sooner or later you're going to be riding in a paceline on the flat sections of your group ride.  And, as long as you're going to be riding in a paceline you might as well know how to do it properly from an etiquette & safety standpoint.  Here are my tips/rules:

1.  First and foremost, if you don't feel comfortable drafting closely behind the rider in front of you (and I'm talking 6-12 inches) then DON'T!  If you touch the wheel in front of you, guess who is going down?  Not the rider in front of you, YOU are.  And, guess who else is going down?  Everyone that is following closely behind you.  So, again, if you don't feel comfortable stay in the back of the group and when riders that are done pulling up front slide back to the end of the paceline leave some room for them to get in- and tell them to GET IN.

2.  Secondly, keep the pace.  For every paceline there is an average speed.  If you're paceline is averaging 25 mph, then maintain 25 mph.  Don't accelerate or decelerate when it's your turn to pull.  Keep a steady pace and look down at your bike computer to ensure you're maintaining 25 mph.  Make sure you have an accurate bike computer on your bike that shows speed.  You can't guess.  Naturally, if the road goes uphill you most likely won't be able to maintain 25 mph so don't break your back trying to maintain 25 mph...20 mph may be fine.  If you have a power meter on your bike and you were pushing 200w on the front to maintain 25 mph then continue to push at 200w on the hill.

3.  Don't jam on the brake.  That's right do NOT brake hard for any reason.  If you have to adjust your speed in a paceline there's two ways to do it, the first I prefer is: move out of the slipstream or "air" brake. The second is to stop pedaling or soft-pedal (pedal w/ little to no resistance on the pedals).  If you have to touch the brakes, then do just that, "touch" them or "feather" them, do not grab a handful of brake.  If you brake hard it does nothing but cause a potential crash behind you.  If you see a pothole that's too late to avoid- try to avoid it or if you have to go through it..but DON'T brake hard. Same with anything that runs in front of you like a squirrel, fox, deer, ground hog, dog, etc.  Try to avoid it, if you can't- hit it!  If you brake hard you're going to cause a crash behind you.

4.  Keep your eyes ahead looking down the road.  Try not to fixate on the wheel in front of you.  If you do, you won't be able to react to riders in front of you that may be swerving to avoid obstacles.  Yes, I know that you're only 6-12" from the tire in front of you but try not to stare at the rear tire in front of you.  I like to draft just off the centerline of the bike in front of me.  That allows me a better view down the road.  I can see better and I can still benefit from the draft.

5.  Point impediments out on the road. i.e. potholes, sticks, gravel, rocks, roadkill, black walnuts, etc.  Don't be afraid to yell it out for all to hear.  If there is a rider up or a car up, announce it.  If there is a walker on the side of the road, announce it and signal it too.  Also, if you're up front and you're slowing, for whatever reason, announce it- SLOWING.

6.  Nobody says you have to stay out front and pull for any given amount of time.  If you feel strong, stay out front for 2-3 minutes, if you're not feeling good, then perhaps only 1 minute is all you've got in the tank.  When it's your time to pull-off do it gradually and noticeably so the rider behind you knows.  A flick of the elbow will tell the rider behind you which direction you'll be pulling off to.  Most often it's done to the left- that you pull off.  When you do pull off, slowly drop back to the end of the paceline.  If you're the last rider in the paceline, tell the rider that is slowly drifting back that you're the last rider so they can safely get in behind you.  I've been in pacelines that were moving at close to 30 mph and if you didn't know where the last rider was in the paceline you risked missing the draft and getting unhitched.  And, good luck trying to catch back up to a paceline averaging 30 mph.

7.  If you're in a paceline and you're really gassed (beat) nobody says you have to pull every rotation.  If you don't want to pull, or you want to skip a turn, when the rider that pulled off is slowly drifting back leave them some room to get in between you and the rider in front of you and tell them- GET IN!

Power ON!  Coach Rob